The finals problem started very bouldery. It began with a series of odd slopers, followed by a few powerful moves. Overall, the problem didn’t look that bad, but the sloper start, had me a little worried. When I came out to climb I began up the starting slopers, but could not figure out how to maneuver them. I kept falling. I tried several different methods, including a foot first sequence, but I could not figure out how to use the holds correctly. I began to get frustrated with each failed attempt. When I finally figured out the beta, which was much simpler than I was making it, I made a stupid foot mistake and fell. My time was almost gone, and I was really disappointed that it took me so long to figure out the correct sequence. I had slipped back to 8th place to end the competition. Vasya Vorotnikov and Meagan Martin put on an awesome show and walked away with the win!
After a long day of competition rounds, I was glad to go back to the hotel and rest.
The speed bouldering competition was on Sunday. There were 2 qualifier routes that we were allowed to practice that morning. As I practiced the qualifying problems, I realized I could reduce my time by campusing a few moves on the route. We were told that we would climb each route twice and our lowest time would be recorded on each route. The top 4 climbers with the lowest combined qualifying times would move on to finals.
My two runs on the first qualifier problems went as planned and my lowest time put me in 5th place going in to the 2nd qualifier problem. As the guys began to climb the 2nd qualifier problem, I noticed that they decided to campus the entire 15-20 move roof problem! They were flying through the air like Tarzan swinging through the jungle, making 360° campus dyno moves! They were cutting their time significantly using this method.
When my turn came up, I did the only thing that came to mind at the moment. I jumped up on the problem and began doing my own Tarzan impersonation and campused the route, 360° moves and all! I was proud of myself for being able to pull off some of those moves. When I came down off the route, my arms tingled a little as I returned to the line for my 2nd run. My 2nd go, I took the same approach and cut my time even lower. When I came off of the problem the 2nd time, my arms felt like they were on fire!!!!!!!! At first I didn’t understand why, but as I thought about it, the reason was obvious. I’m a sport climber. I’ve been trained to use my feet efficiently and minimize pulling with my arms. And although my Tarzan experience was FUN, I quickly realized that my arms weren’t as excited about my adventure. They needed a few days to recover……….. I ended the speed competition in 6th place. Ultimately, Josh Levin, and Meagan Martin came out with the win!
I’ve competed in A LOT of climbing competitions, but Dominion River rock was unlike anything I have ever done before. I had a blast competing this year, and I look forward to next year’s comp!
Next stop, Mountain film Festival in Telluride, CO next weekend………………..